If you loosen fuel lines and crank, do you get any fuel from injector lines? If it comes out foamy, you might want to pull injectors and check them. The tip of injector broke off and allowed compression to blow back through fuel line to the pump causing air in fuel lines. I have also seen on this style engine/fuel system that one bad injector caused a no start situation. Sometimes the pins in the connector get worn out and don't grip the pins in the solenoid tight enough to make good contact. Be sure the connectors in that plug are clean and tight. It looks like I can see a splice in the wire going to the solenoid. You will NOT hear a click from this style solenoid. Small cylinder with wires on one end and a pin or rod on the other end which pushes on something to cut off the fuel. Do a google search and you will see pictures of them. Any one of these codes will cause no start situation. The fuel shut off solenoid will be a separate component. You will definitely have a code stored if there is a problem with the solenoid or wires leading to it. It is a computer circuit and damage to the computer can occur from testing for voltage with a test light. The "solenoid" is the other plug in the center of the pump head where the injector lines connect. That sensor will not cause engine to fail to start. The back and white wires I see in the photo are actually going to the fuel temperature sensor. It was the solution to keeping the battery on my generator up to snuff. Thought the one on my generator had gone bad. I just bought another one, incl shipping, for about 29. Once you fix the solenoid/other problem, you might want to look into a battery tender. When the solenoid is energized, it over-rides the springs and pulls away from the metering valve.This is a DE10 Stanadyne. JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R. Spring pressure puts pressure against the metering valve to shut if off. There is NO mechancial connection between the solenoid and the fuel shut-off valve (metering valve). Usually, if it is malfunctioning - the problem is with linkage sticking - or the fuel metering valve sticking. have they come up with a fix for this issue seems there is a plunger that retracts when you turn the key, to allow fuel flow. A bad pump that has siezed and broken the "shear-shaft" will seem to turn very easily.Īlso -a solenoid actually going bad is very rare - all it is an electro-magnet with a swing-arm attached. ![]() full of air - will turn fairly easy - but not totally "free. In regard to the pump turning free - a good pump with fuel hooked to it will turn very hard, a good pump with no fuel hooked to it - i.e. Regardless if it's off or on, fuel still flows into - and out of - the pump and it will not run dry. All the fuel shut-off does - is stop the flow of "charge" diesel fuel to the high-pressure plungers - and nothing else. The solenoid does NOT shut off fuel to the pump. The pump will not run dry because it won't continue to rotate.Ĭlick to expand.It doesn't work that way. ![]() I suspect that is part of the problem.īy the way, when the shutoff solenoid fails the engine will shut off. If you do get a click from the solenoid and the pump appears to be in working order check for + 12V at the pink wire under the hood. When you connect the last wire you should hear the solenoid click. Run another wire from the + terminal to the terminal for the shutoff solenoid (when the pump is installed on the engine a pink or red wire connects to this terminal). The solenoid is held in the cover with the 2 studs that attach the wire on top. There are three screws to remove to get the top off. He uses a regular screwdriver to remove screws, but you will need a special 5 point driver that is used only on fuel systems. Then run a wire from the - terminal of a car battery to the case of the injection pump. Around the 8:50 mark, he pulls the top off of the pump and shows the solenoid. If you can see things rotating inside the pump the driveshaft is still intact and the pump is probably all right. ![]() Take off the side cover (the pentagonal shaped one on the driver's side of the pump that is held on by two screws) and rotate the pump. You need to determine if the pump siezed (causing the driveshaft to break and the drive to be easy to turn) or if it is just rotating normally. Injection pump driveshafts break when the pump siezes. That, however, doesn't mean that it hasn't failed. The injection pump will rotate freely when removed from the truck. Did you check for power to the solenoid before you replaced it? The shutoff solenoid is not a really common failure point (at least not when compared to the electrical that supplies 12V to the solenoid). I think you need to diagnose the problem further.
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